The McNary vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA is in an impressive location to be sure. High above the Columbia River (and the McNary Dam, which provides hydroelectric power to the cities of Kennewick, Pasco, and Richland), a steep and dusty road with switchbacks and sharp edges leads to a captivating vineyard and vista. Fascinating geological formations along the way serve as reminders of previous volcanic activity. When the verdant vineyards finally emerge against the backdrop of so many shades of earth, it’s a visual thrill (be sure to see the video below).

Driving up to the vineyard.

For the sake of context, it’s important to understand a significant historical difference between the wine growing regions of Washington and California; i.e., their relative proximity to the closest major market (and port), Seattle and San Francisco. Much of the Bay Area is within an hour or so drive of Napa and Sonoma counties. If you want to visit vineyards from Seattle, plan on doubling or tripling your travel time (or even booking a flight to the farthest reaches of eastern Washington). While a good bit of WA wine is made in the Seattle metro area, it’s no place for viticulture. This all takes place on the other side of the Cascade range.

This geographical reality created a distinction between grape growers and winemakers in WA early on. While there are plenty of estate wines made in WA (meaning the winery owns and controls the vineyard), it is also quite common for wineries (on the west side of the mountains) to purchase grapes from farmers (on the east side). Some growers and their vineyards have become so well known, in fact, that they can choose to sell only to the wineries they feel will represent their vineyards best.

We’re a part of the large group of wineries in WA that does not own or operate our own vineyards. There are several reasons we chose this path but the basic reality is that we simply lack the fortitude. Farming is proper work! We have nothing but respect for the farming community but are realistic enough to know that we’re not cut out for joining the club. We do, however, appreciate every opportunity to visit the vineyards that provide grapes for our wines to learn as much as we can about the characteristics of the different sites. Plus, vineyards are inspiring. Unless you’re sweating yourself to death planting, pruning, or picking, that is.

At any rate, the 600-plus acres of the McNary vineyard (largely cabernet sauvignon but with several blocks of merlot, syrah, sauvignon blanc, and chardonnay) are a work in progress (as all vineyards are, really). Planted between 2012 and 2017, the story here is still about potential. We’ve sourced both syrah and sauvignon blanc from McNary and are quite pleased with the results. The maturing of these vines, however, will undoubtedly improve the fruit quality over time. This massive investment in plantings is sure to pay off for many decades to come.

Rows and rows and rows.

While the Horse Heaven Hills AVA is known for its sunny warmth, this particular vineyard site also benefits from the adjacent Columbia River which contributes heat-moderating breezes in the summer (as well as cold-moderating breezes in the winter). This is especially important during evening and nighttime hours throughout the growing season. A daily opportunity to cool down helps the grapes retain a balanced acidity to accompany the sugar that develops in the fruit during the warmer, sunnier hours. The skilled viticulturalists on staff also prune the leaf canopy of vines to allow for abundant morning sun (on the east side of vines which are all planted north to south) while the intense late afternoon sun is tempered by plentiful leaf coverage on the other side of the vines. This strategy allows for consistent ripening of the grapes without the risk of off flavors that develop in wines made from sunburned grapes.

A final critical feature of the McNary vineyard is the well-draining soil. With a bedrock of basalt resulting from volcanic activity, the well-draining sandy topsoil helps keep the vines appropriately thirsty and healthy. Sandy soils are known to help protect against the pernicious and destructive aphid phylloxera and produce wines with friendly fruit notes. Over many years, the roots of these vines will dig into the subsoil seeking out moisture and developing complex flavor potential along the way. Like humans, vines develop character through hard work and a bit of suffering.

“Great wine begins in the vineyard” is an oft-repeated truism. Great vineyards are the result of strategic site selection, the wonders of nature, and a tremendous amount of hard work. We’re deeply grateful for the generations of farmers who have honed viticulture to the art and science it is today. The next time you raise a glass of WA wine, we hope you’ll remember the many hardworking folks in eastern WA who made it possible for all of us. And we hope you’ll soon enjoy one of our wines from the fabulous McNary vineyard.

Do you have a favorite Washington State vineyard? Be sure to email us and tell us all about it.